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West Coast surfing legend Frosty Hesson shares his remarkable life story, the story of his extraordinary friendship with wunderkind Jay Moriarty, and his advice on how to be the best.
When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship. Making Mavericks is the inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each of them who they were—surf legends, and the subject of the upcoming film Chasing Mavericks.
In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, “Live like Jay.”
Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson’s determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same.
- Sales Rank: #209955 in eBooks
- Published on: 2015-09-21
- Released on: 2015-09-21
- Format: Kindle eBook
About the Author
Richard “Frosty” Hesson has been surfing the northern California waters since 1963 and was among the elite group of surfers who first began riding the colossal waves at Mavericks in the 1980s. He has trained hundreds of young people in the art of surfing. Among his students was Jay Moriarty, a soul surfer, a true champion, and one of the greatest ambassadors to the sport and lifestyle of surfing. Frosty continues to surf and follow his quest to help people achieve and accomplish their goals.
Most helpful customer reviews
15 of 15 people found the following review helpful.
Awesome Book!
By jazmin.cubilla
This book is about Frosty Hesson's life, but more than that, it's also about how to become a better athlete... I really enjoyed the parts when he coached Jay... It was very interesting when Frosty talked about Mavericks, how it looked, sounded, and how it could pull you under the water for minutes at a time... There were also some great tips on how to better your performance in whatever sport you enjoy.
There were some sad parts as well...
It was also very fun to learn about how Frosty first started surfing. It was a very AWESOME book!! Read it!!
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
Excellent, Sad Story
By norell208
I also really liked the movie. Exciting story of a young
man who intensely pursued his passion of finding the biggest surf
wave and his mentor who taught him how to surf and be the
best he could be. The man conquers this wave, only to die
a couple of years later, at about age 22, free diving in the
Maldives. But the book leaves the reader with hope, talking
about how his friends and family honored him by developing
the phrase "Live Like Jay" in memory of his passion and zest for
life. It reminds me of the book Broke Hungry and Happy, the story
of an extreme kayaker, who was dedicated and passionate about following
his dream of kayaking the world, He died at age 24 in a triathlon, but
left his friends and family the same message and hope: follow your
dreams, do what you love, and live life to the max. In his case,
the slogan, "Do it for Dave" came to life.
9 of 10 people found the following review helpful.
Great story, great teacher
By Michael
I'm biased because I have the good fortune to personally know Frosty--in the water and out. But I highly recommend the book because its lessons and insights are powerful and apply to so many moments in life. Bravo!
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